Egypt, Turkey and Beyond * Installment 9
Istanbul, Turkey * Sophia the Beautiful and the Hips of the Hippodrome

The Blue Mosque:

Named for the blue tile work on the inside walls and ceilings!  And oh, what a beauty.  The building of this mosque began in 1603 and continued to 1617 and is built on the site of the Great Palace of Byzantium, on the southeastern side of the Hippodrome.  It has six minarets and lots of domes and is just a short walk from Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) so you can do them both in about a half day or just a little more (depends on the time you are given and ultimately how much time you want).    What an awe inspiring site.  Keep in mind – this is a religious facility so consider being a little more “conservative” in dress.  Covering your head or at least shoulders is expected and one must remove shoes.  As we entered the facility those who did not have shoulders covered were handed blue shawls that were to be returned upon exiting the facility. 

(Note 13:  Always keep a head scarf handy – you should never enter a church or mosque without your head and preferably shoulders covered – more on this in the notes section) 

Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya): 

The Church of the Divine Wisdom.  Hagia Sophia (Greek), Sancta Sophia (Latin), Ayasofya (Turkish) was built on the site of the Byzantium acropolis.  Her beauty and history so rich, so amazing it may make you weep when you experience her. From the tight stairwells to the second level balconies, to the ornate ceilings and amazing marbled walls, she is breathtaking.  There is a reverence as you walk in and around the rooms, chills will work their way up your arms and down your neck.  With my granddaughter Sophia on my mind I couldn’t help but be overwhelmed – seeing the name Sophia splashed about Istanbul, and then in the Church/Mosque itself. 

Said to be the greatest Church of Christendom, Sophia was transformed into a Mosque by Mehmet the Conqueror soon after his conquest of the city from the Byzantines in 1453.  She was turned into a museum, in 1935.  While still a museum there is a small room that serves as a prayer place.

            Zaina and The Chair of Chairs

The dome is filled with unbelievable mosaic tiles which have been undergoing restoration for some time.  As we entered there was scaffolding from floor to the dome - - I had never seen scaffolding like this and was struck by its presence, not merely because it was “there” but it just looked like a delicate puzzle.  I wondered about those who might work in that maze of lumber – for them it would seem to be clearly dangerous, but equally exciting and fulfilling all at the same time.

The main columns in the central nave area were brought in from Egypt (no wonder I was totally enthralled).  That same main level offered up what seemed to be a stairway to perhaps a magical place.  I was intrigued and just wanted to start up the stairs (darn it all – it was chained off from public access).  Oberon found her magic place in the Stele of St. Gregory Thaumaturgus that is said to have “miraculous” powers.  It is said, if you put your thumb in and make a full turn, your wish will come true.  And Obei did just that. 

     Oh What a Ceiling it is!
       Made me want to lay down
         and look to the heavens

Bottom line here – there is not an inch of this wonder of wonders that you will not be in awe over.  Sometimes as you turn a corner – and look at the beauty she holds, you may find a tear, how can you possibly help it?

Zaina in an Alcove off the Stairs
to the Mezz
A Very Short Ceiling

We went to the mezzanine level to see the Byzantine mosaics and that was well worth the walk up the narrow, winding stair case (an adventure all by itself with its many alcoves – perfect for pictures).  We found so many patterns in the marble, my favorite being the large section that looked like Zebra stripes - - well, I just had to have my pictures.  Oberon found a beautiful painting, her photo opp - - one as beautiful as the other.

                                   Good Luck Oberon!

My first granddaughter’s name is Sophia so I had much fun picking out trinkets and books for her to keep for all time.  I am so glad we pushed and that the beautiful Church, Mosque, Museum was put back on our tour - - just would not have been right to go to Instanbul and miss her awe inspiring magnificence.

The Egyptian Obelisk of Theodosis with faces around the bottom and made out of pink granite; the Serpentine Column (which is one of the most ancient monuments in Istanbul), The Walled Obelisk (which used to have gilded bronze plaques on it that had been sacked by Latin troups in the fourth crusades – you can see where the plaques were attached) and the Kaiser Wilhelm II fountain.  What an amazing area.